The first couple of times I went into the new sister of the NoPo ¿Por Que No? on Southeast Hawthorne, I left because the line stretched out the door and there were no tables available. When I did get in, I was disconcerted by the open kitchen, which contained nobody who looked remotely Mexican. But any concerns about lack of authenticity disappeared in a hail of tacos with fish ($3.50), shrimp ($4) and carne asada ($3), a killer avocado- and queso-topped salad ($3.50) and a couple of plates of spicy cucumbers ($2.50). (NJ)

NIGEL JAQUISS. 3524 N Mississippi Ave. 467-4149. Map