This, friends, is the real goddamn deal: Texas-style barbecue, tender as a soldier's kiss, smoked over the eternal fire of freedom, seasoned with true grit and served with sauce made from cowboy sweat and eagle tears, plus two sides. Or something like that. This narrow diner serves the best barbecue in town, no contest, and we love it. On your first visit, go for the brisket plate, with cornbread and collard greens. It is smoky perfection. Come back a day later for the pulled pork or spicy spareribs, then wait two days and come again for the incredible whole ruby trout.
IDEAL MEAL: Texas red chili, quarter-rack of spareribs, pecan pie.
BEN WATERHOUSE. 1469 NE Prescott. 281-3700.