Can a restaurant with a kids' menu and really good food coexist? Yes. Bridging the divide is Ken Gordon and Nick Zukin's big, busy deli in the Ace Hotel building, where you can stuff yourself with an absurdly large sandwich of incredible house-cured pastrami and corned beef or a boat-size Cobb salad while your tyke tackles a much more manageable grilled cheese or bowl of buttered noodles. They'll steal your pastrami-cheese fries, but there's no way you were going to finish them anyway. The servings here are so large the double-decker club should come with a stenciled warning: Do Not Attempt. Save half for later. The various meats are good and all, but don't miss the excellent pickles and soups, and at least consider forgoing the usual pint for one of dozens of bottled sodas, selected with great care by Zukin.

1038 SW Stark St. 222-3354.

A pint of beer and a Sabrett dog with kraut or caramelized onions for $5.25 at Kenny Zuke's Available only at happy hour, 3-6 pm on weekdays.