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Devour 2010


Food Reviews & Stories
[EUROMANCE] Before the farmers market boom, the Food Network and ingredient porn, PastaWorks provided locals with a bucolic vision of how seductive food can be: roomy bins piled high with pretty local produce; a meat counter where the butcher will explain what guanciale is (and has pig intestine on    More
 
Wednesday, April 21, 2010 KELLY CLARKE

Devour 2010


Food Reviews & Stories
[BIG ’N’ TALL] From crates of Solo cups and popcorn bags to gallon jugs of ranch dressing and cases of corn dogs, this dirt-cheap grocery warehouse is a small-restaurant owner or budget party planner’s best friend. This barebones spot’s got satellite dish-size serving bowls a   More
 
Wednesday, April 21, 2010 KELLY CLARKE

Devour 2010


Food Reviews & Stories
[ROCKIN’ PRODUCE] If this tiny corner market and green grocer were any sweeter, shoppers would be in a diabetic coma by the time they got to the lone register. Luckily, you’d be OD’ing on a well-edited selection of local and, when possible, organic produce, ethnic cookin’ sta   More
 
Wednesday, April 21, 2010 KELLY CLARKE

Devour 2010


Food Reviews & Stories
[THE GOOD STUFF] Former Tuscany Grill owners Pat and Colleen Mendola have turned Eastmoreland’s corner mart into a bona fide foodie hideaway, complete with an open catering kitchen serving dynamite muffuletta and housemade soups. The unfussy Spanish- and Italian-leaning shop is lovingly stocke   More
 
Wednesday, April 21, 2010 KELLY CLARKE

Devour 2010


Food Reviews & Stories
[OLD MACGRESHAM HAD A FARM] Ken Brendler’s red barn looks out of place squatting on a busy corner out near Gresham—like a Wizard of Oz tornado dropped the Portland Farmers Market in the ’burbs. For three decades Brendler and his family have worked with local farmers to provide good   More
 
Wednesday, April 21, 2010 KELLY CLARKE

Devour 2010


Food Reviews & Stories
[HALAL MEAT] Iranian-born Mustafa Elogbi has been offering halal goods—meats that have been butchered according to Muslim customs, much like keeping kosher—for more than two decades. Give a respectful nod to the very fresh-lookin’ whole, skinned goat staring up at you from the butc   More
 
Wednesday, April 21, 2010 KELLY CLARKE

Devour 2010


Food Reviews & Stories
[OLD-SCHOOL MEAT] Anxiety (and euphoria) strikes as you survey the football-field-long meat counter and the buzzing hive of attendants and choppers behind it—do you order the porterhouse steak? Or the Polish sausages? Beef ribs? Portland’s best butcher shop cures wishy-washiness. There a   More
 
Wednesday, April 21, 2010 KELLY CLARKE

Devour 2010


Food Reviews & Stories
[GERMAN SAUSAGE] There’s pretty much nothing better than devouring a spicy, juicy smoked pork link ($3) at a picnic table out in front of the Eichentopf family’s Woodstock sausage shop (open since 1929!). Just don’t be surprised if the whole neighborhood is out there with you, wait   More
 
Wednesday, April 21, 2010 KELLY CLARKE

Devour 2010


Food Reviews & Stories
[EURO MEAT] You can die a happy carnivore in Witold Lunkiewicz’s Tigard shop, where the Poland-born butcher grinds, smokes and cures everything from Hungarian, Yugoslavian and Romanian-style sausages to hunks of Danish bacon with the proud flourish of a new father. Just don’t ask him whi   More
 
Wednesday, April 21, 2010 KELLY CLARKE

Devour 2010


Food Reviews & Stories
[KILLER BREAD] The story of mustachioed breadman Dave Dahl, an ex-con who traded dealing meth for baking bread after 15 years in the slammer, is part of Oregon mythology. But just as legendary are the burly baker’s breads—nutty, hearty, whole-grain organic loaves that beat the pants off    More
 
Wednesday, April 21, 2010 KELLY CLARKE
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