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Devour 2010


Food Reviews & Stories
[MIDDLE EASTERN, HALAL MEAT] Northern Iraqi-import Khalil Abdullah’s big, red Beaverton market has one of the largest selections of Middle Eastern goods in town and is a godsend for halal households. Happily wander the clean, well-lit aisles collecting a basketful of teas and spices, different   More
 
Wednesday, April 21, 2010 KELLY CLARKE

Devour 2010


Food Reviews & Stories
[TOFU] It’s all about excellent, fresh tofu, whether it’s fried and coated in lemongrass ($3), served hot ’n’ plain with soy sauce (60 cents for 8 oz.) or mixed with onion and wrapped around a funky pork ball. Saigon natives Thuha and Minh Bui started their family-recipe tofu   More
 
Wednesday, April 21, 2010 KELLY CLARKE

Devour 2010


Food Reviews & Stories
[MEXICAN] Chile heaven is in a strip mall on the side of TV Highway. At Salvador Galvan’s Mexican market, one whole wall, four shelves high, is devoted to dried chiles from across Mexico and Latin American—long, inky chile negros; cherry-shaped cascabels; morita; ancho; mild guajillo&mda   More
 
Wednesday, April 21, 2010 KELLY CLARKE

Devour 2010


Food Reviews & Stories
[MEXICAN] It’s Thriftway—en Español. The bones of this Cornelius Latino grocery are old-school Americana, from the wide aisles to the row of cashiers, but here the bulk nut bin in the produce section has been replaced by tub after tub of dried chiles and the canned tuna comes with   More
 
Wednesday, April 21, 2010 KELLY CLARKE

Devour 2010


Food Reviews & Stories
[BAKERY] There’s a good reason the trashy Plaid Pantry strip mall near the east end of the Burnside Bridge is swamped with cop cars every morning. That’s when Portland’s finest grab their daily fix of Boun Saribout’s truly perfect doughnuts. “It’s a sketchy corner   More
 
Wednesday, April 21, 2010 KELLY CLARKE

Devour 2010


Food Reviews & Stories
[MEXICAN] The smell—yeasty, sugary, browned-crust wafts of happiness—hits you before you ever see this tiny, spartan panaderia’s big bakery case and tall racks of breads and treats, all baked on-site. Grab a tray and a pair of tongs and start filling up on pan dulce, fruit-stuffed    More
 
Wednesday, April 21, 2010 KELLY CLARKE

Devour 2010


Food Reviews & Stories
[BAKERY] This tiny, family-owned St. Johns institution has been showing off a front window full of treats like zingy cream cheese Danishes and dense raspberry cream-filled fudge muffins for 60 years, but according to baker Art Gilbert (who is married to current owner Kathryn Woodward), the family ha   More
 
Wednesday, April 21, 2010 KELLY CLARKE

Devour 2010


Food Reviews & Stories
[DESSERT] With its pretty pastel color pallette and glass stands topped with cupcakes, cookies and cakes, Laura Widener’s new Montavilla dessert shop fits its feminine name. Drop in for her excellent chocolate chunk sandwich cookie with salted caramel cream ($2) or a sunny lemon-curd tart. Alt   More
 
Wednesday, April 21, 2010 KELLY CLARKE

Devour 2010


Food Reviews & Stories
[EASTERN EUROPEAN, MEATS]  From its ceiling full of Eastern European flags fluttering in the air vent breeze and Cyrillic fashion mags to its bulk bin Euro chocolates and caramels ($6.99 a pound), Georgian and Albanian wines and an international roster of 11 different kinds of bologna, at Tanya   More
 
Wednesday, April 21, 2010 KELLY CLARKE

Devour 2010


Food Reviews & Stories
[GERMAN DELI] “We make it all here—the sausage, the meats, with none of the shippings,” booms Lydia Heredea, a warm-eyed woman with a heavy Romanian accent standing behind Old Country’s chest-high case of kielbasa, knackwurst, Hungarian black paprika links, Polish dogs, hot p   More
 
Wednesday, April 21, 2010 KELLY CLARKE
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