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On Love And Latkes

Colleen's Bistro takes homestyle cooking to the edge.


Food Reviews & Stories
Every year at the University of Chicago, legal scholars, philosophers, culture critics, literary theorists and even Nobel laureates earnestly but with tongue firmly in cheek debate whether latkes (pot ...   More
 
Wednesday, November 16, 2005 Roger Porter

Sophisticated Woman

The Painted Lady colors Newberg dining chic.


Food Reviews & Stories
When I told a friend I was going to Newberg for dinner, he wondered why. "Portland," he said, "also has an Arby's, a KFC, and a Burger King; why go all that way?" But Newberg now has a splendid new re ...   More
 
Wednesday, October 26, 2005 Roger Porter

DARING DISHES

Olea's Mediterranean accents lead to bold flavors.


Food Reviews & Stories
As the global restaurant market becomes more generic, the quest to distinguish oneself from the pack grows more frantic. Sometimes this means a kitchen will prize silly innovation for its own sake, bu ...   More
 
Wednesday, September 7, 2005 Roger Porter

ELEPHANTS ON PARADE

Portland's first gourmet market reinvents itself in good taste.


Food Reviews & Stories
In the beginning, there was Elephants.No, in the beginning there was sliced turkey from the Fred Meyer deli case. But when Elaine and Jake Tanzer opened Elephants Delicatessen in 1979 in the Uptown Sh ...   More
 
Wednesday, August 10, 2005 Roger Porter

FARM FRESH

The camaraderie between local producers and chefs heats up this summer's farm dinners.


Food Reviews & Stories
Rancher John Neumeister faced a problem: how to supply more lamb shanks to chef Paul Klitsie, the chef/co-owner of the local Italian kitchen Fratelli, without increasing the size of his more-than-1,00 ...   More
 
Wednesday, July 20, 2005 Roger Porter

SMALL WONDERS

Patanegra picks up where Tapeo left off.


Food Reviews & Stories
No one in town makes tapas better than Ricardo Segura, whose wonderful restaurant Tapeo closed last year only to be reincarnated in a larger, livelier version as Patanegra. Tapeo felt cozy and intimat ...   More
 
Wednesday, July 6, 2005 Roger Porter

Nothing Toulouse

Does Cuvée's faux-French cooking do its wine-country setting justice?


Food Reviews & Stories
I so much wanted to like Cuvée, a relatively new French bistro in Willamette Valley wine country opened by Gilbert Henry, who first made his name as the chef/owner of the Portland fish restaura ...   More
 
Wednesday, May 25, 2005 Roger Porter

A Levantine Feast

Two local Lebanese restaurants cradle you in the Fertile Crescent.


Food Reviews & Stories
Democracy may not be sweeping the lands of the souks, but for democratic eating in restaurants where there are more choices on the menus than on the ballots in Baghdad, you can't do better locally tha ...   More
 
Wednesday, April 27, 2005 Roger Porter

More Spice

Two Cajun-accented joints deliver something extra.


Food Reviews & Stories
"Lagniappe" is French-Cajun for "a little something extra," like a baker's dozen, and that seems a fitting name for this casual Southern place on Northeast Broadway. Lagniappe joins the more upscale A ...   More
 
Wednesday, April 6, 2005 Roger Porter

A TASTEFUL ORGY

Smaller plates? Just what will Portland's eastside food innovators think of next?


Food Reviews & Stories
Bar Pastiche, the new oasis on Southeast Hawthorne Boulevard, is a small gem of a space serving bites of flavor all day long. You can nosh on brioche in the morning, panini at noon and small hot dishe ...   More
 
Wednesday, January 5, 2005 Roger Porter
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