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The Long And Winding Road

Lauro's star chef unveils a high-concept spice-route paean.


Food Reviews & Stories
Some restaurants fairly stand up and scream for analysis, and Vindalho, the latest venture from Lauro Kitchen restaurateur David Machado, falls firmly into this camp. It's a culinary exploration of th ...   More
 
Wednesday, December 28, 2005 Seth Lorinczi

The $2.50 Taco

Why does a North Mississippi taqueria have foodies up in arms? Hint: It's not the food.


Food Reviews & Stories
"You been to ¿Por Qué No? yet?" I asked my friend JB. "Yeah," he grumbled. "I walked in, looked at the menu and walked out. Why would I pay $2.50 for a taco when I can get one for $1 at ...   More
 
Wednesday, November 9, 2005 Seth Lorinczi

Restaurant Guide 2005


Food Reviews & Stories
Sited in a striking pink house just south of the Mississippi strip, this destination restaurant garners a near-rabid following, and no mystery why: The physical space—an abandoned, 1910-vintage house saved from demolition, then painstakingly retrofitted with period fixtures and decor—bal   More
 
Wednesday, October 19, 2005 Seth Lorinczi

Restaurant Guide 2005


Food Reviews & Stories
You may experience mild surprise upon entering this Southeast hot spot. After all, the name—which translates simply as "Our Kitchen"—and the mission, an avowedly simple take on the food of central Mexico, are somewhat at odds with the elegant, tiled interior and cool patio. But any confu   More
 
Wednesday, October 19, 2005 Seth Lorinczi

Restaurant Guide 2005


Food Reviews & Stories
"Festive" is a difficult quality to grasp; all too often, restaurants striving for a fun, party-like atmosphere instead deliver forced jollity and insincere hospitality. No such problem for this diminutive, appealingly cramped Cuban outpost. From the eye-catching—or eye-peeling, depending on y   More
 
Wednesday, October 19, 2005 Seth Lorinczi

Restaurant Guide 2005


Food Reviews & Stories
This hot spot, arguably the anchor of the 28th Avenue restaurant row, wows right off the bat, with a cool tiled bar, honey-toned wood everywhere, and modish slats diffusing warm light throughout the dining room. The hip aesthetic—thankfully, leaning towards the inclusive—extends to the f   More
 
Wednesday, October 19, 2005 Seth Lorinczi

Restaurant Guide 2005


Food Reviews & Stories
Portland boasts its share of Middle Eastern joints, but few match this downtown emporium's authoritative take on traditional Lebanese cuisine. The restaurant occupies the ground floor of the historic Bishop's House, though one wonders what its original occupant, Archbishop Blanchet, would make of th   More
 
Wednesday, October 19, 2005 Seth Lorinczi

LOST IN THE SAHARA

No oasis to be found at this otherwise appealing Moroccan joint.


Food Reviews & Stories
Years ago, a friend and I found ourselves in Istanbul. Though Turkey is universally renowned as one of the world's best places to eat, we had managed to find the one bad restaurant in town. The hot fo ...   More
 
Wednesday, October 5, 2005 Seth Lorinczi

NOW THAT'S ITALIAN

At picture-perfect Lorenzo's, the food is as good as it looks.


Food Reviews & Stories
"I'm going to review Lorenzo's, that Italian deli on Mississippi," I told J., my trusty reviewing partner. She put her hand lightly, ever so lightly, on mine and said, "I know you'll do the right thin ...   More
 
Wednesday, August 31, 2005 Seth Lorinczi

PALE ALE

Concordia's beer buzz is just plain flat.


Food Reviews & Stories
The Northeast Portland 'hood of Concordia may be the word on every realtor's lips these days, but you wouldn't know it come mealtime. Foodwise, most people associate Concordia with the McMenamins Kenn ...   More
 
Wednesday, August 3, 2005 Seth Lorinczi
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