Food Reviews & Stories
October has to be the worst month to open a food cart. The
cold and damp has set in, but it’s still five months until spring
brings hordes of pale, undernourished diners out of hibernation cra
4130 SW 117th Ave., Beaverton, 350-1801.
[HIDDEN IZAKAYA] There’s no sign for this Beaverton strip
mall izakaya other than the name on the door. Inside the bare-bones
dining room there’s not
926 NW 10th Ave., 841-5463, yamasushiandsakebar.com.
[AVOID THE BLOWFISH]
Yama means “mountain” in Japanese, on the face of it a bewildering name
for a sushi restaurant. But Yama is also the
8029 SE Stark St., 477-6030, tanukipdx.com.
[WOW!] Chef-owner Janis Martin’s
Montavilla izakaya is a dim, nearly unmarked space frequented mostly by a
small, self-selecting group of adventurous
3810 SE Division St., 841-5527, shigezo-pdx.com.
[NOODLE BAR] Izakayas look and act like Restrantus but they are, taxonomically, Tavernus.
That is, the Japanese-style late-night noodle-and-booze sh
536 E Burnside St., 467-7501, mirakuteipdx.com.
[LO-BU SUSHI AND RAMEN] After
wowing diners at Hiro Sushi in Lake Oswego and Hiroshi in the Pearl
District, sushi master Hiro Ikegaya migrated east
4246 SE Belmont St., 971-279-2161, hokuseisushi.com.
[SHISO FINERY] Don’t let its
unlikely location, next door to the bastardized Teppanyaki tables of
Slappy Cakes, fool you into thinking you��
215 SE 9th Ave., 239-8830, biwarestaurant.com.
[TOKYO TUNNEL] Biwa is far too
established to be called a secret. Yet happening upon the basement
izakaya still feels like an enchanted surprise. Gl
836 NW 23rd Ave., 971-229-1925; 310 SE 28th Ave., 232-5255; bamboosushi.com.
[GUILT-FREE SUSHI] As the first
certified-sustainable sushi restaurant in the world, Bamboo accompanies
its bill with