Oslo in the Summertime

Dinner at Broder Nord is pleasant but strangely quiet.


Food Reviews & Stories
There’s an instinctual pause before reaching for the door handle. There’s scant proof of life behind the window. But back at the curb, a sandwich board advertises openness. The door gives. App   More
 
Wednesday, April 2, 2014 MARTIN CIZMAR

It’s Local Somewhere

The American Local is an intriguing blend of diner flavors.


Food Reviews & Stories
The American Local is neither American nor local—which is to say, it’s as American as it gets. Like Smallwares, which it mirrors on the Portland city map, this clean-lined modern space is heav   More
 
Wednesday, March 26, 2014 MATTHEW KORFHAGE

Maurice


Food Reviews & Stories
Maurice, named after chef-owner Kristen D. Murray’s pet rabbit, is bright white as an art gallery, with signage on reams of butcher paper in the front window. The sunnily domestic train-car bist   More
 
Wednesday, February 26, 2014 MATTHEW KORFHAGE

Star-Crossed

Ecliptic shoots for the moon, makes a pretty good sandwich.


Food Reviews & Stories
Portland brewery food tends to be solid, but far from spectacular. That is to say, you’ll never find foodies and wine lovers making reservations to get Breakside’s hummus, Lompoc’s wings o   More
 
Wednesday, February 12, 2014 MARTIN CIZMAR

The Sudra


Food Reviews & Stories
The Sudra doesn’t serve Indian food, whatever they try to tell you. Nowhere that cheerily offers a sweet-but-sadistic strawberry habanero sauce with your “calabacitas” kofta is an Indian spo   More
 
Wednesday, January 29, 2014 MATTHEW KORFHAGE

Give it a Tri

Ken Forkish’s tavern-née-auto shop starts strong, needs detail work.


Food Reviews & Stories
Ken Forkish ambles into Trifecta just after 7 pm on a Friday night. He hangs up his coat, then does a lap. He works the room like a politician, shaking hands   More
 
Wednesday, January 22, 2014 MARTIN CIZMAR

A Comfortable Davenport

Kevin Gibson’s new restaurant is a paragon of refined simplicity.


Food Reviews & Stories
Everything about Davenport is quiet. But the new East Burnside Street restaurant from former Evoe chef Kevin Gibson and wine expert Kurt Heilemann, ensconced in the cozy former June space, started   More
 
Wednesday, January 15, 2014 MATTHEW KORFHAGE

Witch Way

How is the food at Black Cauldron, Portland’s second vegan strip club?


Food Reviews & Stories
Some things are too good to be true. Unfortunately, a seven-course vegan tasting menu at a strip club in far-flung East Portland is one of them. When Casa Diablo owner Johnny Zukle opened his    More
 
Wednesday, January 8, 2014 MARTIN CIZMAR

Todos Los Tacos

Nayar Taqueria shows more variety is great—until it’s not.


Food Reviews & Stories
Rookie restaurateurs are pushovers when it comes to their menus. If you mention you’re from the neighborhood and ask for something they might be expected to serve, there’s a decent chance you�   More
 
Tuesday, December 31, 2013 MARTIN CIZMAR

Teote


Food Reviews & Stories
Teote bills itself as an areperia, after the Venezuelan corn cakes that accompany most of the plates on the menu. But that’s a bit like calling a Chinese restaurant a rice house. However delight   More
 
Wednesday, December 18, 2013 MATTHEW KORFHAGE

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