The Sudra


Food Reviews & Stories
The Sudra doesn’t serve Indian food, whatever they try to tell you. Nowhere that cheerily offers a sweet-but-sadistic strawberry habanero sauce with your “calabacitas” kofta is an Indian spo   More
 
Wednesday, January 29, 2014 MATTHEW KORFHAGE

Give it a Tri

Ken Forkish’s tavern-née-auto shop starts strong, needs detail work.


Food Reviews & Stories
Ken Forkish ambles into Trifecta just after 7 pm on a Friday night. He hangs up his coat, then does a lap. He works the room like a politician, shaking hands   More
 
Wednesday, January 22, 2014 MARTIN CIZMAR

A Comfortable Davenport

Kevin Gibson’s new restaurant is a paragon of refined simplicity.


Food Reviews & Stories
Everything about Davenport is quiet. But the new East Burnside Street restaurant from former Evoe chef Kevin Gibson and wine expert Kurt Heilemann, ensconced in the cozy former June space, started   More
 
Wednesday, January 15, 2014 MATTHEW KORFHAGE

Witch Way

How is the food at Black Cauldron, Portland’s second vegan strip club?


Food Reviews & Stories
Some things are too good to be true. Unfortunately, a seven-course vegan tasting menu at a strip club in far-flung East Portland is one of them. When Casa Diablo owner Johnny Zukle opened his    More
 
Wednesday, January 8, 2014 MARTIN CIZMAR

Todos Los Tacos

Nayar Taqueria shows more variety is great—until it’s not.


Food Reviews & Stories
Rookie restaurateurs are pushovers when it comes to their menus. If you mention you’re from the neighborhood and ask for something they might be expected to serve, there’s a decent chance you�   More
 
Tuesday, December 31, 2013 MARTIN CIZMAR

Teote


Food Reviews & Stories
Teote bills itself as an areperia, after the Venezuelan corn cakes that accompany most of the plates on the menu. But that’s a bit like calling a Chinese restaurant a rice house. However delight   More
 
Wednesday, December 18, 2013 MATTHEW KORFHAGE

Hand-Me-Down

Trinket serves cheery brunch in a dim den of horns and silver.


Food Reviews & Stories
In August, wild-eyed chef Eric Bechard surrendered the Kingdom of Roosevelt after only six months in business. The ambitious native-foods menu apparently out-weirded Portland with wood-pigeon live   More
 
Wednesday, December 18, 2013 MARTIN CIZMAR

Punch Out

Micah Camden’s Boxer Ramen delivers quick, hard jabs.


Food Reviews & Stories
Micah Camden’s strategy isn’t much of a mystery. You see it in action at the restaurateur’s most successful venture, Little Big Burger, which has a simple menu built from a small pantry of   More
 
Wednesday, December 11, 2013 MARTIN CIZMAR

Second Rodeo

Rodney Muirhead’s La Taq rides herd.


Food Reviews & Stories
Grub-wise, Texas is best known for two things. First, there’s barbecue, which the Lone Star State does better than anyone. Second, there’s that vaguely defined cuisine de gringo known as “   More
 
Wednesday, December 4, 2013 MICHAEL C. ZUSMAN

Both Ends Burning

Roman Candle by day and by night.


Food Reviews & Stories
In the morning, Roman Candle tends to be busy, all four planks of communal walnut splattered with laptops and coffee mugs. The brightly lit room is inviting from the street—warm smells and white   More
 
Wednesday, November 13, 2013 MARTIN CIZMAR

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