Bravo Barcelona

Ataula is the best westside Spanish joint in a generation.


Food Reviews & Stories
Let’s not call Ataula, the 3-month-old rookie venture from Barcelona-born chef Jose Chesa, a “neighborhood restaurant.” To my ear, that’s code for mediocrity, the kind of place you’d vis   More
 
Wednesday, November 6, 2013 MICHAEL C. ZUSMAN

Hat Trick

Tasty N Alder is John Gorham’s latest great restaurant.


Food Reviews & Stories
Much like a Montessori school, Portland chef John Gorham seems to operate on a three-year development cycle. His Northeast Russell Street tapas joint Toro Bravo—famed for its slow-marinated, t   More
 
Wednesday, October 23, 2013 MATTHEW KORFHAGE

Restaurant Review: El Cubo de Cuba


Food Reviews & Stories
Little Havana’s Cuban restaurants feel strangely uptight, like they’re run by Republicans. One of the best lunches I’ve had all year, at the Versailles Bakery in Miami, was marred by the u   More
 
Wednesday, October 9, 2013 MARTIN CIZMAR

Hispanica Incognita

Rough-cut Mexican restaurant Prehispanica still excels in places.


Food Reviews & Stories
Just one block south of Tasty n Alder and across from Saint Cupcake, at the dusty frontier of the past year’s West End restaurant boom, lies something vanishingly rare in Portland: an upscale-   More
 
Wednesday, October 2, 2013 MATTHEW KORFHAGE

Grassa-Fed Cattle

Wait in line, get some oily pasta.


Food Reviews & Stories
Grassa and Lardo share more than just a back door. Rick Gencarelli’s new housemade pasta restaurant is indeed adjoined to the West End outpost of his sandwich empire, which is expanding even fas   More
 
Wednesday, September 4, 2013 MATTHEW KORFHAGE

Hook, Sinker

Trent Pierce’s Block and Tackle contains bright surprises, dull familiars.


Food Reviews & Stories
Trent Pierce’s Block and Tackle—in the former Wafu space—is like a four-eye butterflyfish. That is to say, it’s hard to tell where its head is. On the one hand, Block and Tackle is the   More
 
Wednesday, August 21, 2013 MATTHEW KORFHAGE

Devil’s Dill


Food Reviews & Stories
If you’re not from the Midwest, you might wonder why anyone would keep a sandwich shop open until 3 am. But drunken college kids without much to do require massive sandwiches to soak up the bo   More
 
Wednesday, August 21, 2013 PETE COTTELL

A Broken Spoke

Township & Range is a pedestrian addition to Ladd’s.


Food Reviews & Stories
Southeast Portland’s leafy Ladd’s Addition neighborhood is spoiled. Its stately homes are set back from tall oaks lining a Eurocool hub-and-spoke compass of streets that radiate out from the   More
 
Wednesday, August 7, 2013 MICHAEL C. ZUSMAN

El Modernito

Ración makes joyful, high-tech tapas.


Food Reviews & Stories
The world has found three great Spanish loves in the past decade. First, tapas bars with cheap bites of interesting food meant to be sampled and shared. Second, the wide range of safety-glasses-re   More
 
Wednesday, July 31, 2013 MARTIN CIZMAR

The Verdant Fields of Cully

Old Salt is a Renaissance restaurant.


Food Reviews & Stories
Old Salt contains multitudes. A stately 6,000-square-foot pleasure dome of food in the otherwise barren Cully neighborhood, the venture encompasses a butchery that works only from whole animal c   More
 
Wednesday, July 17, 2013 MATTHEW KORFHAGE

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