Counter Attack: Asian

Our favorite counter-service Asian spots.

By WW Staff

Noraneko

1430 SE Water Ave., 238-6356, noranekoramen.com.

The miso, shoyu and shio chicken ramen broths at izakaya Biwa's ramen-ya spinoff are all perfectly lovely—with the miso preferred—but the invented vegetarian soy-shiitake broth is a heartbreaker of epic proportions. Throw in some pork belly chasyu for two bucks more and you have a damn near perfect soup.

The Sudra

2333 NE Glisan St., 971-302-6002, thesudra.com.

This vegan restaurant offers a Portland take on Indian-inspired dishes, like a Bollywood film directed by Gus Van Sant: silver platters heaped with fluffy chickpea cutlets with brown basmati rice, ginger-molasses root vegetables and a zippy kale tahini salad. At happy hour, everything is $5—whether potato masala or the kale-infused dosa.

Nong's Khao Man Gai

609 SE Ankeny St., Suite C, 740-2907, khaomangai.com.

Nong has added a Southeast walk-up to her fleet of food carts serving the landmark khao man gai dish (chicken and rice) that launched a million articles.

You need nothing more than the tender chicken served on a bed of sticky rice with soybean sauce. It's sticky, rich, beautiful and perfect, exploding with ginger and chili and garlic.

The Baowry

8307 N Ivanhoe St., 285-4839, facebook.com/baowrystjohns.

The Baowry is a wellspring of five-spice powder, especially in the steamed buns that gave the little converted house bar its name (available in pork, duck or veggie), an eloquent balance between spice, goop, crunch, tang and the softness of the little bun. Otherwise, the roe-topped "perfect egg" noodle dish lives up to its name.

Double Dragon

1235 SE Division St., 230-8340, doubledragonpdx.com.

Double Dragon houses not just the best kimchi hot dog you're ever likely to have—it's also one of Portland's best hot dogs, period, served up alongside solid drinks, a decent (if tiny) tap list and upscale banh mi with fine ingredients. While you wait, play the namesake video game on a vintage arcade cabinet.

Luc Lac

835 SW 2nd Ave., 222-0047, luclackitchen.com.

By far the best late-night option for drunks anywhere near Old Town, Luc Lac has a beautiful bo tai chanh meat salad (ceviche made of beef and covered in peanuts), a host of fried pan-Asian drinking snacks that are perilously cheap during happy hour and a cocktail with pho inside it.

Willamette Week

Willamette Week’s reporting has concrete impacts that change laws, force action from civic leaders, and drive compromised politicians from public office. Support WW's journalism today.