Counter Attack: Mexican

Our favorite over-the-counter Mexican spots in Portland.

By WW Staff

Chicken and Guns

1207 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 234-7336, chickenandguns.com.

The best damn Latin-inspired chicken in the Portland area is now here at the Cartopia pod. The oak-and-mesquite-grilled birds are moist and smoky from bone to charred skin, dry-rubbed with spice and served with onion and tomato, then smothered in spicy jalapeño-vinegar sauce that bursts with freshness. They are heaven with spice.

Pollo Norte

5427 NE 42nd Ave., 287-0669, pollonorte.com.

At Cully's immensely popular bodega-sized rotisserie chicken restaurant, just pull apart the chicken and make little tacos out of Norte's own housemade rustic corn tortillas, thick with rough edges and nice lines of crust from the press. Order a side of the excellent coleslaw, apply the bright tomatillo sauce liberally, grab a michelada to drink and you're pretty much set.

Tienda Santa Cruz

8630 N Lombard St., 289-2005.

Installed in the backroom of a tienda and panaderia in downtown St. Johns, Santa Cruz draws a mix of working folks from the 'hood and foodies who crave killer street tacos. You must try the carnitas, a huge hunk of salty, fatty and achingly tender roasted pork pulled right off the bone.

Stella Taco

2940 NE Alberta St., 971-407-3705, stellatacopdx.com.

This stylish Tex-Mex taqueria pairs the classics, like lengua and chile colorado, with more contemporary offerings like vegetarian-fried avocado and vegan mole. But breakfast tacos alone are a reason to go, like the Chihuahua-style breakfast burrito pairing stringy machaca-style beef with scrambled eggs and soft, white cheese.

Mi Mero Mole

5026 SE Division St., 232-8226; 32 NW 5th Ave., 971-266-8575; mmmtacospdx.com.

Nick Zukin's love letter to Mexican street food revolves around well-made guisados, or stews, served on tacos or tortas, in burritos or in ways more exotic. Get the burrito, beer and a shot deal at the Chinatown location—$10 and available all day, perhaps one of the best deals in town.

Angel Food and Fun

5135 NE 60th Ave., 287-7909.

This Yucatecan joint may be humble in décor and pricing, but there's nothing humble about the flavor of Manuel Lopez's food: It's loud as hell. The rich relleno negro lives up to its name, deep black with burnt chili and filled with tender turkey. And the cochinita pibil is revelatory, its pork seasoned with achiote paste and bitter orange.

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