Everybody needs soul food. Even—maybe especially—vegans. Enter Harvest at the Bindery. This is a place where you want to keep it country.

For example, salads include a high-falutin kale panzanella ($8 small, $12 large) with too-sweet tomato vinaigrette and large toast-sized slabs, but you're much better off with the green goddess salad ($8, $12) with pickled onions and unbelievably delicious chewy roasted mushrooms called "shiitake cracklins."

Much of the menu consists of competently roasted vegetables with a little flair, and those dishes will change seasonally—we we really liked the summer squash in a delightfully oily pecan pesto.

Photo: Emily Joan Greene
Photo: Emily Joan Greene

One of my favorite vegan plates in town is Harvest's newish barbecue of trumpet mushrooms ($16). The tangy sauce is based on Sigmon's grandfather's barbecue recipe, but with sherry. The 'shrooms have a pleasantly stringy, and very porky, consistency—if you're looking for a plant-based 'cue, this is the best you'll find in town.

Photo: Emily Joan Greene
Photo: Emily Joan Greene

Pro tip: Every table gets a plate of cornbread with a sweet and creamy spread of hazelnuts, herbs and safflower, which I'd put up against any free bread plate in town.

GO: 3101 NE Sandy Blvd., 894-9172, harvestatthebindery.com. 5-10 pm Tuesday-

Saturday, 9 am-3 pm Saturday-Sunday. $$.