BY AMY WOLFE

Natural Selection's menu is an ode to dietary restrictions. Not only is it vegetarian, but it also labels gluten-free and vegan options. Seasonal veggies offer their crisp, fresh flesh as well as any flank steak.

The always-changing $45 four-course prix fixe menu is the main attraction, but you can order any of the items a la carte. The table is all yours for two hours.

We got a cucumber and tomato salad, sprinkled with pickled shallots and green olives atop a generous portion of leafy greens, perfectly paired with a light balsamic and shallot vinaigrette dressing and an entree of hand-rolled ceppo pasta with black olive tapenade, surrounded by sweet onion and fennel.

Pro Tip: Plan on cocktails—the creative offerings on our visit included the Pretty Mess, with pomegranate molasses and peach liqueur.

GO: 3033 NE Alberta St., 288-5883, naturalselectionpdx.com. 5:30-10 pm Wednesday-Saturday.