Ox is expensive—a 36-ounce ribeye is $90. Look at it this way: It's a fraction of airfare to Argentina.

Ox shouldered its way into Portland's list of elite dining spots soon after opening in 2012, and owners Greg Denton and Gabrielle Quinonez Denton haven't rested on the many laurels that have come their way. The chimichurri sauce, a potent blend of garlic, vinegar, parlsey and a touch of heat, is good enough to put in a champagne flute.

OK, it's a meat place first and the skirt steak, feathery soft, yet muscular as Schwarzenegger ($24) will make home grillmasters weep with envy.

Photo: Nashco
Photo: Nashco

It's not just beef, either. You'll be delighted with the pepper-seared albacore ($27) or the roasted duck breast ($27) and even the smokey, earthy grilled maitake mushrooms ($14). The basics, such as fried russet potatoes slathered with horseradish aioli ($6), are anything but basic.The feel can be a little Westside—clean-shaven gents showing exquisitely-coiffed dates the rougher side of town—but it's hard to blame the Dentons for creating a destination.

Photo: Nashco
Photo: Nashco

Pro tip: Unless there are six or more of you, you'll be waiting, so chill at Whey Bar in the parking lot, where raw oysters will keep you potent without filling you up.

GO: 2225 NE Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd., 284-3366, oxpdx.com. 5-10 pm nightly. $$$-$$$$.