5365 SE Sandy Blvd., 284-1773, dusgrill.com. Lunch and dinner

Monday-Friday.

Du's is a meaty institution charred into the very nucleus of Portland's DNA. The Sandy Boulevard shack—now on its second generation of grill chiefs presiding over teriyaki chicken, beef and pork—has been at the center of an unholy cloud of smoke for decades now. Stop in to pick up the two-meat pork and beef combo for $10.45, a grill-kissed, ginger-garlic-spiced pile of thin-sliced and marinated perfection on rice—with a sesame-dressing salad on the side —and then take it somewhere, anywhere else and watch the vultures circle. "What's that?" they'll say, the second the smell works its way around the room. When you tell them it came from Du's, if they've lived in Portland for longer than a couple years, chances are they'll get a certain faraway, dreamy look in their eyes before remembering to be offended: "Why didn't you tell me you were going?"