10000 SW Canyon Road, 297-2590, geraldispdx.com. Lunch and early dinner daily.

Show up at 11 am and you might just find people waiting huddled against the doors of this old-school Italian shop, waiting for it to open. Geraldi's makes pizza and pasta, but it's the old-school hoagies that get most folks excited, especially the so-called Spicy Geraldi. It's not that spicy—a few thin-sliced bright yellow peppers on top of mildly hot pepperoni—but it is good. Because Geraldi's buys relatively hearty bread designed to stand up to hot marinara, you'll do even better with the hot subs. The Chicago beef is the go-to.