1203 NW 23rd Ave., 477-7133. Lunch and dinner Sunday-Friday.

True story: Every other Friday, I take my newly acquired paycheck three blocks south of the WW office and plunk down $13 on a full-sized Grant's Original (though a stacked half-sandwich could suffice for lesser gluttons), one foot of the best damn cheesesteak in town. It's a reminder to myself to appreciate such luxuries. Used to be you had to travel halfway to Gresham, to the shop's original location, before Grant and Diane Schuler expanded their operation to a basement storefront in the bustling heart of Northwest 23rd. What makes it so good? For me, first it's the peppers, of both sweet and spicy varieties, which are shipped straight from Philadelphia, like the sturdy rolls that contain them. Second is the meat—sheets of perfectly cooked sirloin, dusted with some kind of magical spice blend. Then there's the cheese. Variations come with American, Swiss, Tillamook cheddar and Cheez Whiz, but the Grant's Original comes with provolone, which Diane Schuler told us allows you "to taste all the flavor of the meat."