11729 SW Beaverton-Hillsdale Highway, Beaverton, 671-9725. Lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday.

The premises are purely utilitarian, ensconced in one of Beaverton's endless strip malls. But this K-town Korean spot offers a brilliant hot stone-pot version of bibimbap with fish roe, kimchi and rice ($11.95). It's delicious and a textural wonder, especially once the searing pot works it magic to create a crunchy rice crust, what the Spanish lovingly call socarrat. But if you want to splurge, go for one of the "Hae Rim Specials," in particular the spicy stir-fried pork with kimchi ($15.95). The dish balances hints of sweet and tart with not-too-intense spiciness. A surrounding circle of tofu triangles earns presentation points. Hae Rim is a top stop for Korean food beyond the stereotypical table-top grill.