11830 NW Cedar Falls Drive, 844-585-2487, kizuki.com. Lunch and dinner daily.

Don't hate Kizuki (formerly Kukai) because it's part of a chain—albeit one based in Japan, with outposts in Oregon and three other states. Don't hate it, either, for its location in a swanky strip mall so new the paint is barely dry. Embrace it for the deep flavors of soy, miso and fish deeply distilled in the broths. The shoyu ramen ($8), thick with greens and a flavorful slab of pork is a great introduction to the ramen portion of the menu. From the spinach goma-ae ($4), a small mountain of steamed spinach slathered with a subtle sesame dressing will make you feel good about healthy eating and great about spending time in the wilds of unincorporated Washington County.