9603 SE 82nd Ave., 890-5625. Lunch and dinner daily.

You're forgiven for driving straight past La Catrina. Located in an inauspicious gravel lot, across from a McDonald's, in Happy Valley, a part of town most Portlanders reading this wouldn't ever think to tread, it's one of those carts that seems as if it'd prefer to stay a secret—never mind that it was once a ubiquitous brand around town. And it probably would've remained a taco truck known only to the neighborhood were it not for the torta—a massive sandwich that seems to consist only of meat and bread, with "hints" of tomatoes, onion and guacamole. You could play rugby with the half-size alone; a whole could help you fend off muggers on the way back to your car. You should be glad this place is way out on deep 82nd. Otherwise, it would've killed you already.