1134 SE 82nd Ave.; 7238 SE Foster Road (Mercado); 477-0224. Lunch and dinner daily, except Mercado is closed Tuesdays.

At the two Los Alambres locations, father and son Antonio and Bryan Hernandez—at 82nd Avenue and the Mercado, in turn—serve massive football-sized tortas so stacked with meat and cheese that they are also football-shaped. Each offers over a pound of stomach-swelling, salty, savory goodness. The trick to Los Alambres' tortas—as with all tortas, really—is always the quality of the bread, and it excels here: thick, fluffy, toasted and capable of withstanding the sheer weight of topping. But if the trick's the bread, the cart's secret is the dish without it, the Distrito Federal-style Los Alambres plate welding together four different meats, bell peppers and onions with a preponderance of cheese. It is the world's most decadent nacho served not over chips but with little corn tortillas.