In this era of diet fetishization, Laurelhurst Market continues to shine like a beacon for those who feel steak and charcuterie are requisites to a well-lived life.

From the butcher case of pâtés and European bolognas up front to the craft cocktails and locally sourced meats in the restaurant portion, it's perhaps the Portlandiest of steakhouses, beloved by tourists and locals alike. Dark paneling, white tablecloths and filet mignon have been jettisoned for clean lines, reclaimed wood and boutique cuts like bavette and teres major, served with regionally inspired sides like chanterelles and smoked marrow butter.

Pork and chicken dishes also make an appearance on the menu, this being a butcher shop and all, as does a perplexingly popular traditional iceberg wedge salad ($10), but what you want is the beef. Seared, rubbed or dry-aged, a la carte cuts are further elevated with an optional marrow bone, chimichurri or horseradish sauce or marchand de vin ($3–$4). So go on, indulge your deepest carnivorous desires, and for the love of all things holy, get the charcuterie plate as a starter ($10-$17).

Eat: Steak. The rib-eye with candied jalapeños ($45) if you're looking to sate a large appetite; otherwise, the more modestly portioned seared bavette with either seasoned frites or field greens ($25).

(Hilary Sander)
(Hilary Sander)

Drink: You won't go wrong with anything off the cocktail menu, but the Smoke Signals ($12)—whiskey, sherry and pecan syrup poured over a block of smoked ice—is a standout.

Most popular dish: The a la carte steak option with $4 herb-roasted marrow bone is a bona fide crowd pleaser.

Noise level: 63/100

Expected wait: None early on weeknights, but reservations are recommended.

Who you'll eat with: Baby boomers and some well-heeled tourists excited to find an eastside equivalent to Ruth's Chris.

Year opened: 2009

3155 E Burnside St., 503-206-3097, laurelhurstmarket.com. 5-10 pm nightly. $$$.