DANGEROUS THREADS
BY MARK BAUMGARTEN - mbaumgarten@wweek.com
Finding spring style in the house of music.
Fashion in music has become as fractured as the urban music landscape.
Each sound-- rap, New Wave, goth, grunge, hip-hop, emo--has also
come with a distinctive style. Image has become so vast and varied
that now, at the beginning of the 21st century, musicians seem retro-crazed,
once again mining musical influences for fashion sense. And they've
got a lot to work with.
From that moment in 1964 when the shaggy-haired Beatles stepped
off the plane in America, personal fashion has been locked in a
dance with rock 'n' roll. Sure, bluesmen had style and Elvis' hips
were risqué. But the Beatles ushered in an era of fashion-as-rebellion
that would eventually move them--and the rest of the pop world--out
of their formal wear and into their birthday suits, dancing naked
in the rain.
The '70s brought pomposity and spectacle to arenas across the country,
with big-haired dinosaur bands and the pronounced glitz of glam
artists like David Bowie and T Rex's Marc Bolan. Then in the latter
half of the era, punk changed everything.
The very ethos of punk was about breaking down the spectacle of
performance, and fashion was one of the movement's most powerful
tools. The threads punks on both sides of the Atlantic wore--and
sometimes punk fashion was little more than threads--introduced
an element of danger to performance: The sexual danger of torn skirts,
bare chests and amped-up androgyny. Or the physical danger of pins,
garbage bags and filth.
The punk scene is where Portland's Roulettes have scavenged much
of their music and fashion sense. Taking cues from bands like the
Slits and second-generation punks Bikini Kill, the Roulettes have
just started to take local stages, playing a ragged post-punk that
flirts with danger.
To tell a story about spring fashion, we've dressed up the band,
as well as other rock-'n'-roll characters--promoters, a roadie,
a bouncer and a bartender--in styles of the season. Sure, the looks
may be borrowed. But in a borrowed world, secondhand danger is almost
as threatening as the real thing.
Music Editor Mark Baumgarten writes about fashion but displays
none of his own.
THE BAND
The Roulettes are four recent Oberlin grads out to prove that (a)
girls rock, and (b) liberal-arts degrees can pay off. Their basement-born
band is taking Portland's most debonair dives by storm with their
carefree, punked-up sound. Hand claps? They got 'em. Fuzz bass?
Check. Light-up tambourine? Ohhhhh yeaaahhh. Check them out at Ash
Street, at Slabtown, on Friendster, or on their self-titled debut
on the new local label Lucky Madison.
On Rachel Hass (tambourine, keys, vocals): White studded
cuff, $14, Dragonlily. Gray/black striped Kites dress, $240, Seaplane,
3352 SE Belmont St., 234-2409. White studded belt, $28, Urban Outfitters,
2320 NW Westover Road, 248-0020.
On Rebecca Keith (vocals, guitar): Black dress with pink
tulle skirt, AliMay, $228, Dragonlily, 1740 SE Hawthorne Blvd.,
234-5459. Irregular Choice shoes: model's own.
On Amanda Huhn (drums): Pink sport mesh pleated skirt, $38,
Urban Outfitters. Black silk top by Claire LeFaye, $84, Seaplane.
On Caitlin Poliak (bass, above right): Black-and-silver
top by Frocky Jack Morgan, $43, Seaplane. Dickies black-and-red
pinstriped pants, $45, Local.35, 3556 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 963-8200.
Black rivet double-wrap belt, $18, Urban Outfitters.
THE PROMOTERS
Mike Quinn is the
co-brains and brawn behind Monqui Presents, as well as the co-owner
of East--you have to have heard of him. Watch for his new venture,
Doug Fir, embedded at 8th and East Burnside in the soon-to-be-remodeled
Jupiter Hotel.
On Mike (above left): Hummel zip pullover, $90. Sunglasses,
$14. Both from
Urban Outfitters.
Adam Mackintosh does double duty as both the booker and promoter
at Dante's,
1 SW 3rd Ave., 226-6630, the site for this photo shoot.
On Adam (above center): He picked up his threads in London,
baby.
THE ROADIE
That hunk hauling gear
is no stranger to grunt work. Mason spends his days as a WW
intern. Lucky man.
On Mason (left): appliqué and stenciled zip hoodie,
$53, Local 35.
THE BARTENDER
Rock-star bartender
Bridget O'Connor can be found slinging shots at hipster compound
Holocene (1001 SE Morrison St.,
239-7639).
On Bridget: Black/blue velvet halter top by Linea, $64.
Hoop and chain earrings, $14, Urban Outfitters. Black layered skirt,
$58, Urban Outfitters. Fishnet stockings and Fornarina shoes: model's
own.
GROUPIE
When he's not "with
the band," Abner Gutierrez (a.k.a. DJ Makeout) daylights as retail
engineer for Red Light Clothing Exchange.
On Abner (center): Grnappletree mint green button-down shirt,
$56, Local 35. Back-zip pants by Cover, $150, Lit, 214 SW 8th Ave.,
827-3300.
SECURITY
Travis Carstensen
provides the muscle at Dante's by night, but don't let the biceps
fool you. He also attends the Art Institute of Portland. Course
of study? Video-game design.
On Travis (pictured right): This guy wears whatever he wants,
but it's usually black on black. |