1401 SE Rasmussen Blvd., Battle Ground, Wash., 360-723-0937, northwoodpublichouse.com. 11 am-10 pm Sunday-Thursday, 11 am-11 pm Friday-Saturday.

It's a long drive up to the strange small-town charms of far-exurb Battle Ground, where the death of a family horse still makes the news. You go past field after field of cows and end up here, in this high-ceilinged brewhall where, as it turns out, you're most likely to avail yourself not of the house nanobrews but the taps of pFriem and Block 15 and Lost Abbey and Ecliptic. Northwood's home brews have dwindled to a mere two of its Little Dipper beers, both of which are saddled with a constellation of flaws. But you know? It doesn't matter. Somebody up there has great taste in guest taps, and you can pound Sticky Hands and be well.

Drink this: They had a pFriem lambic on tap last time—I recommend that heartily.

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