339 NE Cedar St., Camas, Wash., 360-210-4761, mcbwbeer.com. 11 am-10 pm daily.

Going to Mill City Brew Werks is like a trip to Grandma's house—not your own grandma, but sort of an idea of grandmothers and how they might live. In vaguely domestic and neutral-toned surrounds decorated with pictures of farms there is a stone fireplace, and all food is designed to make you fat—burgers with bacon, burgers with ham, and burgers with corned beef, all on house-baked buns. Politeness reigns, and even the beer might be warm-hearted and a little daffy, like an IRA that tastes a little like a woodstove, and a funnily tart blood-orange wheat called Sadie's, brewed as a fundraiser for a little girl who landed in the hospital. But as it turns out, this grandma's a Russian drunk. Because damn if that Russian imperial isn't a beautiful piece of drunkcraft, with just a hint of hoppy bitterness off its top complementing roasted notes and smooth malt.

Drink this: Pull down two of those 10-percent-ABV Tripwire Russian imperials, eat a Reuben burger and declare yourself Nebraskan-Russian.