247 S 2nd St., Coos Bay, 541-808-3738, 7devilsbrewery.com. 11 am-9 pm Monday, Wednesday and Thursday, 11 am-10 pm Friday and Saturday.

Coos Bay is the largest city on the Oregon Coast, but it doesn't feel like it. The little enclave shielded from the Pacific by a sandy spit feels very remote—not as remote as nearby Remote, Oregon, but close. Coos Bay is the least touristy city on the Oregon Coast, and 7 Devils matches the vibe, coming across more like a community pub than a place built for the crush of summer tourists. 7 Devils public house hosts live music every week, and the menu features hearty comfort food made with local ingredients, from meatloaf made from beef that's fed with the brewery's spent grains to fried albacore that came off boats in the harbor. The selection of beer is likewise classic, including a blonde, an amber and an oat porter all priced below $5 per pint. The simple, light-bodied lagers were the best offerings on our summer visit, with the simple darks following quickly behind. 7 Devils does package some beer, but it's rare to see it in Portland.

Nearby: Feeling like pizza instead? Bandon Brewing (395 2nd St. SE, Bandon, 541-347-3911, bandonbrewingco.com), 30 miles south, makes solid, wood-fired pizzas. So far, Bandon hasn't been able to reliably populate their taps with their own brews, and so they serve a lot of stuff from 7 Devils.