407 SW 10th Ave., 503-546-8537, pepelemokopdx.com.
From the front door, you'd have no idea that past the oysters on ice in the kitcheonette, down the narrow staircase, and through the thick curtains below lies a mutedly chic underground cocktail bar. The menu is about well-executed classics: a Woodford Reserve old-fashioned, the red-and-white-striped paper straw in the grasshopper milkshake (creme de menthe, Fernet Branca, cacao and Jacobsen's sea salt) and artisanal corn nuts that accompany each order.