Restaurant Guide 2005

This gem nestled in the southwestern Hillsdale neighborhood has been quietly knocking Northwestern cuisine out of the park for years. Chef Kevin Peck's specialty is a cheeky twist on fresh local ingredients—a dish like Oregonzola ravioli with crispy Walla Walla onions could be an overpowering bleu-cheese disaster (not to mention the diner's resulting breath!), but it ends up subtly flavorful and scrumptious to boot. Perhaps his inspiration lies in the unbelievably romantic atmosphere: The two-story building, part of a defunct train station, charms with dark walnut walls and chalet decor, creating a woodsy steakhouse feel sans the Morton's stuffiness. (LS)

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