Cheap Eats 2005

This peppy Italian eatery redefines fast food. Order at the counter, and within minutes the ultra-friendly staff presents you with the piping-hot entree you've been watching them toss in a skillet. The gnocchi dish ($8.25 à la carte)-mixed with chicken, broccoli, fresh tomato, Gorgonzola and walnut-tries too hard to be everything at once. The simpler ravioli pesto ($7.95 à la carte), however, succeeds because of a delicate cream sauce that knows when to say "when." (JD)

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