Skip to main contentThe in-house dining room of Fifth Avenue Suites, this restaurant has a magisterial feel, owing to its warm woods and high ceilings. But no sooner have you sized the place up as hoity-toity, than you peek at the menu and find fare for the common man: root-beer floats, for crying out loud! And baby-back ribs! Red Star's appeal lies in its integration of all-American comfort food with a smidgeon of the gourmet. Ergo, there is sparkling wine on the menu, but it's from Oregon, not France or Italy. There's a fondue plate with Oregon cheese, but its touch of Kirsch brandy imparts an authentic Swiss flavor. Main courses range from seared Maine scallops to blackened catfish. And if you're a coleslaw fan, don't miss this one; infused with chiles, it'll bite you back. (RS)
WWeek 2015