Restaurant Guide 2007

In the mood for Chinese—the kind of Szechuan-American comfort food usually nestled deep in the 'burbs—but don't want to give up the upscale trappings of such overwrought luxe locales like the Pearl District? Head to this cavelike, neutral-hued restaurant. Located smack in the midst of the Pearl, this slick space features nice touches, including stainless-steel chopsticks, beautiful fresh orchids, fancy cocktails (like the Pearl Drop made with Skyy Citrus and fresh ginger) and Western-style creamy desserts, including crème brûlée from Southeast's Chef Tucker's Pâtisserie. Stick to classics like crisp scallion pancakes, sweet-savory cashew chicken and moo-shu pork with fresh, housemade wraps, or go for more interesting choices like lobster wontons. Either way, the professional waitstaff and the talented folks in the kitchen ensure a memorable meal in a chic setting—or a great way to bring your takeout-and-movie night to the next level. (SC)

Signature dish: Spicy sesame beef on crispy rice noodles is the perfect combo of crispy, meaty, sweet and salty.

Standouts: Reaches the holiest of grails as far as service: totally on top of it, barely noticeable.

Regrets: Be ready to pay Pearl prices—lunch specials hover around $10, and most dinner entrees are in the $15 to $20 range.

WWeek 2015

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