Restaurant Guide 2006

We're going to say this right up front: Tabla has small portions. The point of the Mediterranean restaurant's carefully designed menu (which, by the way, offers half and full sizes) is quality, not quantity. It's about enjoying the flavor, the way it subtly fills your mouth with savory or sweet—or both—and washing it down with a favorable wine. Minimalism in food is a good thing, and Tabla does it with panache and a museum-quality presentation. The pure simplicity of hand-cut pasta with truffle butter, or the duck confit with whipped potatoes and a port-poached orange, is simply genius. And let's not forget the three-course prix fixe menu! It's still going strong, even if it did get bumped up from $20 to $24. That, my friends, is a deal. (LS)

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