Skip to main contentLong one of Portland's top restaurants, Wildwood is doing some re-tooling since the departure of founding chef Cory Schreiber on June 1. Service is still polished, the booths in back are still cozy, and executive chef Dustin Clark was mentored by Schreiber. The menu still looks like a farmers market shopping list, with the best of the region and season, from pasture-raised beef to wild mushrooms. At least for now, though, meals can be hit or miss. Start with the creamy-cheesy romaine salad (but have them hold the vinegary onions), then pick an expertly cooked piece of fish or meat, or go for a longtime favorite like the Dungeness crab and potato cake.
Signature dish: On the menu since Day One, skillet roasted mussels in a balanced broth flavored with garlic, lemon, saffron and the unexpected sweetness of sun-dried tomatoes, ideal for sopping up with the admirable whole-wheat levain.
Standouts: Pizzas and pastrami sandwich in the bustling bar; desserts are first-class.
Regrets: One of the city's emblematic restaurants needs to regain its footing as a leader.
WWeek 2015