Skip to main contentIt's been three years since this Mediterranean-inspired "Kitchen" opened its fabulous doors, and the restaurant is still packed nightly. That, along with Lauro's no-reservations policy, is often annoying—think hour-long waits featuring lots of plate envy and salivation—but it's worth the wait. The ever-changing menu is all about dishes crammed with subtle flavor, using spices in surprising ways. The tagine of chicken uses preserved lemons and the meat itself as a supporting role to a fennel confit. Fried calamari is lightly dusted in a salt-and-pepper batter of sorts and gently sizzled—but the side sauce is a fiery Portuguese piri-piri. It's a precarious balance, but chef-mastermind David Machado makes it work. With a loud and bustling atmosphere, the energy in Lauro is strong, too. It's the perfect place to kick off a see-and-be-seen evening of fun. (LS)
WWeek 2015