Skip to main contentThe fact that this restaurant is in Camas, Wash. (a 20-minute drive from downtown Portland), or that chef owner Brad Root sharpened his knives at influential kitchens like Wildwood and Higgins, is really beside the point after your first forkful. The wood-lined dining room and amber lighting create an earthy feel that hints at the chef's close connection to the land and the growers who supply his superb ingredients. The open kitchen weaves together simple local flavors like mussels with a bright shallot white-wine broth and Walla Walla onions with flaky pastry and Gruyère cheese to great effect. Entrees focus on Northwest meats and fish, from line-caught king salmon with crisp fingerling potatoes to falling-offthe-bone Cascade Natural short ribs with smoked bacon and incredible, rich demi-glace. Though a bit off the radar, Roots is on the forefront of Northwest cuisine, so venture forth. (IM)
WWeek 2015