Soaring ceilings studded with electrical accoutrement, mostly bare concrete walls and rather severe lighting create a perhaps too-modernist vibe in this 1910 space. The quality of ingredients and technique merit Siam�s prices�slightly higher than at mom-and-pop Thai restaurants�but don�t insulate against the occasional less-than-breathtaking dish. Choose well from the long menu and you�ll dig into excellent dishes like �Sexy Beef,� slices of flank steak in a fiery coconut broth, or the kao soy chicken, another epiphany from Northern Thailand. But peanut-sauce curry, with gloppy angel-hair pasta and a too-tart peanut sauce, is a total miss, and the saut�ed eggplant was undercooked. Siam Society mostly succeeds in breaking away from the mundane Thai restaurant model. Fine-tune the d�cor, the acoustics, and the odd dish, and this society will have a huge membership in no time. (Originally reviewed 2/1/06.)
WWeek 2015