Restaurant Guide 2005

Walking into this buzzing terra cotta-washed restaurant is like setting foot in another country: The music is Latin, the staff is warm, the menu titles are in Spanish, and the dishes are full of splashy color and foreign ingredients. Start with the Peruvian national dish, cebiche�an array of seafood in punchy citrus marinades that renders them tender yet resilient. Small plates, like the piquillo peppers stuffed with quinoa and serrano ham and causa, purple potato layered with smoked trout and crisp red onion, tempt you to make a meal of them. The entrees are a mix of homey traditional dishes like tender lamb stewed in black beer and innovative, upscale fare like duck three ways�rare breast, crispy confit and seared foie gras with emerald green cilantro rice. (IM)

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