Skip to main contentAmbitious 25-year-old chef Gabriel Rucker, a former Gotham Building Tavern sous, is pleasing diners with inventive combinations in a simple space. Patrons cluster, like the tattooed flock of pigeons he wears on his right forearm, around Rucker's open kitchen, a perch he ventures from when he finishes off a dish with a fresh herb garnish before personally delivering it to your table. The dinner menu shifts with Rucker's whims�he visits the farmers market three times a week. The risotto, often on the menu, is a sure bet. At weekend brunch, when prices drop substantially, you can order interesting riffs on typical stuff, like hearty eggs Benedict with whole-grain mustard hollandaise or the best of the bunch�a chile relleno. It's served over red potatoes, and hit, when hot, with cheddar cheese and cilantro. You'll eat every bite. You also might be surprised at how much you can spend at a plain-looking place like Le Pigeon, where nothin's fancy except Rucker's imagination. He's made a good start. Let's see where this hardworking urban bird lets his menu fly next. (AA)
WWeek 2015