Skip to main contentWhen Hiro Ikegaya moved early this year from Lake Oswego to Jamison Square in the Pearl, he brought more than another sushi spot to town. Whether he's serving impeccable sushi and sashimi or expressive, elegant cooked dishes, Ikegaya is simply a master chef. Take his early autumn special, matsutake mushroom soup, served in a rough-textured ceramic teapot. The colorless broth, poured into a tiny teacup, was a magic potion so full of earthy aroma and flavor it transported us to the deepest forest; eating the gently poached mushrooms remaining in the pot was almost anti-climactic. The chef deftly balances flavor and texture, combining the kick of red jalapeño chiles with miso, garlic and sesame oil on seared tuna, or frying moist sea-eel fritters in a crisp, golden ponzu crust, and serving them with a creamy dipping sauce. The urbane, taupe-and-charcoal dining room is blessedly peaceful. Sit at the sushi bar for more action and watch Ikegaya's wizardry emerge. (HY)
Signature Dish : Decadent monkfish liver and sturgeon caviar with
truffle vinaigrette; tuna tartare with wasabi redefines tastes you thought you knew.
standouts : Try anything from the Appetizers section of the menu.
REGRETS : The unusual dishes need explanation, but some servers' poor English skills aren't up to the task.
WWeek 2015