Cheap Eats 2011: Los Gorditos

Savvy Portland taco-lovers (and vegetarians) knew the joys of Los Gorditos when its oversized burritos and succulent tacos were only available via a cart with a long lunchtime line. But in its seamless 2008 transition to sit-down taqueria, Gorditos filled a gaping hole in Southeast Portland cuisine, raising the stakes for inferior local chains that have been good-enough options for far too long. We're rooting for Los Gorditos to take over the city: Its $1.75 tacos are chunky and minimal in presentation (the carne asada is salty and suitably charred); the burritos border on obscene in size and are reasonable in price. The $6.50 Super Stacey is on the pricier side of Los Gorditos' menu, but it's a crowning achievement in burrito architecture, packed with cheese, red sauce, sour cream and a handful of less-important non-sauce ingredients. The restaurant is quick, and the impressive salsa bar even features queso dip. Still, vegans love Los Gorditos, largely because of the taqueria's mastery of that increasingly invasive species, soy curls. Gorditos' soy-curl fajita burrito ($6) is a good option for the vegetarians, as well: Just add cheese, then pray for the stamina to actually finish the thing.

WWeek 2015

Casey Jarman

Casey Jarman is a freelance editor and writer based in East Portland, Oregon. He has served as Music Editor at Willamette Week and Managing Editor at The Believer magazine, where he remains a contributing editor. He is currently working on his first book. It's about death.

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