5200 NE Sacramento St., 284-6617, cabezonrestaurant.com

[HIDDEN IN HOLLYWOOD] First, let me apologize to the good people of Hollywood and Rose City Park for outing this gem to the city at large. For nearly five years, the small seafood bistro and fish market has been quietly winning over its neighborhood with seasonal ingredients and whatever has been freshly pulled from the ocean. The expertise comes from owner and chef David Farrell, who did stints in San Francisco and Atlanta before opening this first personal venture with wife and wine buyer Jackie Speck. Simple and modern, the vibe is food-focused and casual. The signature cioppino—a seafood stew—is a revelation with densely flavorful, plump pieces of fish, whole crab, squid, mussels and clams. The roasted duck confit with blackberry port sauce should be consumed while blindfolded to fully appreciate the sheer decadence of each bite. For dessert, keep an eye out for the homemade blackberry ice cream sandwiches on crispy, double-chocolate cookies. PENELOPE BASS.

Pro tip:

The menu changes almost daily, so if you've got your heart set on something specific, call ahead to see what they are serving.

5:30-9 pm Sunday-Thursday, 5:30-9:30 pm Friday-Saturday. $$$.