1635 SE Tualatin Valley Highway, Hillsboro, 359-8808.

A gluten-free friend was in despair when Guanaquita closed up shop last year in Hillsboro—the only Salvadoran spot around to offer the option of rice-flour pupusas, heavenly pockets of grain stuffed with goodness—but the closure was blessedly temporary. Quietly enough to slip past Yelp and confuse Google, those beautiful loroco, bean and cheese or plain old cheese pupusas have reappeared, this time next to Dream Girls Espresso's bikini baristas and a sad-looking strip club on TV Highway—cooked up out of the food cart out front but ordered only at the counter within. Order a lovely strawberry licuado—a version of smoothie—and the little girl who's been playing quietly at the table will erupt into motion to assist in its making. By all appearances, she's expecting a kickback. Even a slurp would be worth the effort.