1625 NE Killingsworth St., 888-5687. Dinner daily, late lunch Saturday-Sunday.

If you've ever sat in front of a pile of moist, meaty brisket at Podnah's and thought, "All this needs is a lake of gooey melted cheese," you are both probably Texan and absolutely right. Start with the house-fried tortilla chips and brisket queso, which might be the best thing you've ever purchased for $6.50, and follow it up with the stacked brisket enchiladas ($12). But in the event you've scarfed all the queso before your dining companions got there—and who could blame you?—get a puffy taco, which is clearly the best form of taco ever invented. For $5, fillings like beef chile rojo, topped with lettuce, crema, cheese and pico, wrapped in a soft, deep-fried shell will be enough to top you up.