Ha VL is the Vietnamese soup shop that shipped a thousand articles in the food press. The family makes just two soups a day, every day but Tuesday, forever. Most are served at founders Christina Ha Luu and William Truong's Rose VL on Southeast Powell Boulevard, from complex turmeric-laden mi quang to peppery pork ball noodles. But when son Peter Vuong inherited the original Ha VL on Southeast 82nd Avenue, he introduced an innovative take on bun cha oc snail noodle soup with a lemongrass-scented snail meatball. It's a marvel of soupcraft.

GO: 2738 SE 82nd Ave., No. 2, 503-772-0103, 8 am-4 pm Wednesday-Monday