It's unclear if Screen Door originated Portland's brunch-line culture, but it's certainly become synonymous with it. Everyone accepts the hour-plus wait for a table, because they know a mountainous plate of the city's best chicken and waffles ($12.50-$16) is at the other end. And yes, that's what everyone orders. But if you just need to be different, the Cathead Biscuit Sandwich ($14) slaps that same fried chicken between two gravy-slathered pieces of bread that greatly overestimates the size of the average feline's dome.

GO: 2337 E Burnside St., 503-542-0880, screendoorrestaurant.com, 8 am-2 pm and 5:30-9 pm Monday-Thursday, 8 am-2 pm and 5:30-10 pm Friday, 9 am-2:30 pm and 5:30-10 pm Saturday, 9 am-2:30 pm and 5:30-9 pm Sunday. $$.