1. Taquería los Puñales

3312 SE Belmont St., 503-206-7233, lospunales.com. 11 am-10 pm daily.

This taco shop is not yet 2 months old, but it feels like it's been serving the Sunnyside neighborhood for years. Every tortilla is made in-house that day, stuffed with an array of guisados—complex braises of meats and vegetables, including carnitas, barbacoa and chicken tinga. If you want innovation, there's unique, Argentine-inspired pesto carne asada. But the classic tinga is a perfect gateway to the guisado style, and chef David Madrigal's version is subtly excellent.

Khmer corn.
Khmer corn.

2. Sunshine Noodles

3560 N Mississippi Ave., 971-220-1997, sunshinenoodles.com. 11 am-3 pm Thursday-Saturday.

Sunshine Noodles is an avowedly irreverent, none too serious take on contemporary Cambodian food by Revelry vet Diane Lam. The corn pudding is a candidate for the city's best new dessert, but the lime pepper wings are the breakout hit—spicy and complex, they want for nothing except a beer, and perhaps a napkin.

Oregon bay shrimp with fig leaf and artichoke at Berlu, awaiting a mussel broth flavored with parsley. IMAGE: Abby Gordon.
Oregon bay shrimp with fig leaf and artichoke at Berlu, awaiting a mussel broth flavored with parsley. IMAGE: Abby Gordon.

3. Berlu

605 SE Belmont St., berlupdx.com. Order at exploretock.com/berlupdx.

A meal at Berlu is a fully formed experience. Naturally, chef Vince Nguyen's year-old fine dining spot has been slow to adapt to the takeout era. A bento box concept didn't work out, so this week, Nguyen is trying something new: a make-it-yourself take-home tasting menu. For $85, customers receive ingredients for a two-person, eight-course meal, with instructions for cooking delivered via Instagram. Not that there's much cooking to be done: Most of the items—including crab with chanterelles and bay shrimp with corn and pickled rose—just need to be plated.

(Christine Dong)
(Christine Dong)

4. Langbaan

6 SE 28th Ave., 971-344-2564, langbaanpdx.com. 3-9 pm Thursday-Sunday.

Greg Ninsom's most elusive property is adjusting to the current reality by opening its patio and introducing a newer, snackier, dare we say funner menu, with Thai coconut-rice pancakes, cuttlefish salad, chilled curry noodles, and alcoholic slushies. It used to be that you had to make a reservation a year in advance to get a table at Langbaan—now, you can just walk up. Thank you, pandemic?

St. Jack’s Burger & Fries ($14) (Thomas Teal)
St. Jack’s Burger & Fries ($14) (Thomas Teal)

5. St. Jack

1610 NW 23rd Ave., 503-360-1281, stjackpdx.com. 3-8 pm daily.

Aaron Barnett's baby gained acclaim for its rich and hearty French country-style classics as interpreted through the eyes of a Canadian living in the Pacific Northwest. But he always kept a bar burger on the menu. It's the go-to offering on St. Jack's to-go menu, but it's still worth ordering even if you're dining in—or rather, on the street. It's a big, sloppy, juice-running-down-your-arms kind of burger, served along with crunchy, creamy fries bolstered with a hint of gremolata, sided with aioli.