Malka Is Portland’s Wildest New Restaurant. Somehow, All Its Risks Pay Off.
The long-awaited Malka is the restaurant version. Items on the menu have nutty names and even crazier compositions. Each dish is a madcap mélange of a dozen or more ingredients that, on paper, couldn’t possibly work together, yet invariably do. A meal at Malka is chaos that magically coalesces into harmony. And everyone seems to leave happy.