Restaurant Guide 2006

This ambitious two-story restaurant offers sweeping views of Jamison Square, coveted see-and-be-seen patio seating and three cozy fireplaces; though it feels more like a shiny-new Bridgeport Village suburban eatery than an authentic French restaurant, the menu is more real. A long list of petits plats offers classics like frog legs with garlic-laced bagna cauda butter and an escargot and fois gras terrine with brioche toast points. The entrees are luxuriant: Kobe beef with an intense port reduction, seared duck breast and crisp confit on tender flageolet beans, scallops with bacon and creamy leek fondue. If the main courses are opulent, the desserts are smartly diminutive. Golf ball-sized cream puffs oozing real vanilla ice cream, miniature meringues stuffed with summer melon sorbet and a heavenly lemon-tarragon ice cream in a tiny waffle cone are in playful opposition to the substantial dinners. (IM)

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